Ecuador’s northern coastal province, Esmeraldas, offers an alternative to the built-up, resort-driven coastal towns farther south. Known as the green, or emerald, coast, Esmeraldas province is home to pristine beaches, fishing villages and a remote dense jungle and mangrove forest. While most visitors arrive in the provincial capital of Esmeraldas, the industrial port city is widely considered gritty and doesn’t attract large numbers of visitors for more than a night or two. Head south along the Pacific Ocean to reach the coastal towns of Atacames, Súa and Mompiche to experience the region’s famous Afro-Ecuadorian culture.
With a year-round average temperature of 82 F (28 C), the beaches of Esmeraldas draw tourists to the region. From the transportation hub of Esmeraldas, with its international port, domestic airport and major intercity bus terminal, head south along the coast to discover the surf breaks and fishing villages of the coast. Visit the La Tolita archaeological site, located on an island off the coast of Esmeraldas, to see artifacts thought to be from a ceremonial site. See masks and gold jewelry as you explore the area.
Farther south discover the tourist hub of Atacames. The coastal town is the most built-up of Esmeraldas’ coastal villages, making it a great base for those looking for a lively atmosphere. Rent a surfboard to challenge the waves, mingle with locals at late-night restaurants and nightclubs or take a stroll along the waterfront to buy snacks and drinks from vendors.
Visit Mompiche for its 4.3-mile (7-kilometer) stretch of idyllic beach. The small fishing village is considerably more relaxed than Atacames and offers many seafood restaurants and cozy local bars.
Explore Esmeraldas province by slow-moving local bus for an authentic Ecuadorian experience or rent a car for the freedom to move at your own, often faster, pace between towns. Find accommodations in Atacames and Esmeraldas, or visit the smaller villages for humble hotels at affordable rates.