Half-way between Phuket and the mainland, a boat-trip takes you to 'film-set' landscape, where every view is a scenic shot, and every activity an adventure.
The Phi Phi Islands are half-a-dozen fragments of tropical paradise having a mystique and fame all of their own. Call it a celebrity status. All thanks to a certain film (starring a certain Leonardo Di Caprio) which launched them onto the front of tourist brochures worldwide. The script of The Beach demanded a setting of unparalleled beauty. The then-unknown Phi Phi Islands delivered – wowing audiences as much as the acting of the film's stars. Over the last decade, this fame has bought a huge amount of tourist attention to these sublime islands.
That has bought quite a change to the main island, Ko Phi Phi Don, which sits half-way between Phuket and Krabi (about 32 kilometres from each). The village of Ton Sai has become something of a tourist hub, with tour offices, dive shops, restaurants and hotels. It's a town with a difference, though, sitting on a white sandy isthmus separating the turquoise Tonsai Bay, from the deeper blues of Loh Dalum. And while now bustling, it is still mercifully car-free, adding to its unique ambience.
For a set of islands no more than a couple of kilometres in length, the Phi Phi isles pack a list of attractions that would shame a continent. The smaller island of Phi Phi Leh has most of these. There is some excellent snorkelling to be had along Loh Sama's corals, flitting among the vividly coloured tropical fish. Pi Leh Bay has an amazing line of sheer 90-metre cliffs dropping into its clear waters. And Viking Cave is worth checking out for its paintings of 'Viking' boats.
Maya Bay may seem a must-do but sadly the fame has gone to the head of this gorgeous A-list attraction. It's a little too crowded to enjoy properly. Instead look out for the entertaining crowd at Monkey Bay. This beach, overlooked by jungle, has a monkey troop that is readily tempted out to scamper – and wreak havoc – amongst visiting tourists. And there's more – coral atolls, cliff-jumps, hidden coves, wonderful dive spots. But for all their singular attractions, and their ever-growing audience, the Phi Phi Islands manages to hang on that most elusive of qualities.
